Highly concentrated, free-flowing pearly lustre concentrates

ABSTRACT

A pearlizing composition containing: (a) from about 30 to 55% by weight of a pearlizing wax; (b) a nonionic emulsifier; (c) optionally, a zwitterionic emulsifier; (d) from about 0.1 to 5% by weight of a polyol ester; and (e) water, all weights being based on the weight of the composition, and wherein the sum of (a)+(b)+(c) is at least about 55% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and wherein the sum of (b)+(c) is less than about 25% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, and wherein (b) and (d) are present in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 5:1 to 10:1.

This application is a 371 of PCT/EP02/13926 filed Dec. 9, 2002.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to highly concentrated pearlizing concentrateswith a high content of pearlizing waxes and a low content of emulsifiersand special emulsifier/polyol ester mixtures and to a process for theirproduction.

Pearlizers are a long-established and proven medium for providingcosmetic products with an attractive, rich and interesting appearance.An overview of modern pearlizing formulations was published by A.Ansmann and R. Kawa in Parf. Kosm. 75, 578 (1994). The complexrequirement profile these formulations have to satisfy includes suchproperties as high brilliance, good particle fineness and highcompatibility with other auxiliaries, and performance requirementsrelating to processability. Particularly highly concentratedformulations intended for subsequent processing are expected to combineuniform, good physicochemical stability with low viscosity andflowability. Polyol fatty acid esters are often used as viscosityadjusters in the production of pearlizing concentrates.

There are various known formulations which provide surface-activecompositions with the required pearlescence and in which polyol fattyacid esters are used. For example, German patent applications DE 3843572A1 and DE 4103551 A1 (Henkel) describe pearlizing concentrates in theform of flowable aqueous dispersions which contain 15 to 40% by weightpearlizing components, 5 to 55% by weight emulsifiers and 0.1 to 5 or 15to 40% by weight polyols. Polyol fatty acid esters, for example, wereused in large quantities. They were also used in European patentapplication EP 0205922 A2 (Henkel). This application relates to flowablepearlizing concentrates containing 5 to 15% by weight acylatedpolyglycols, 1 to 6% by weight fatty acid monoethanolamides and 1 to 5%by weight nonionic emulsifiers. According to the teaching of Europeanpatent EP 0569843 B1 (Hoechst), nonionic flowable pearlizing dispersionsmay also be obtained by preparing mixtures of 5 to 30% by weightacylated polyglycols and 0.1 to 20% by weight selected nonionicsurfactants. Finally, European patent application EP 0684302 A1 (Th.Goldschmidt) proposes the use of polyglycerol esters as crystallizationaids for the production of pearlizing concentrates.

Although the pearlizing concentrates mentioned are of relatively highconcentration, it has been found that the content of active substancescan be further increased, even for low-viscosity flowable formulations.

As crucially relevant prior art, German patent application DE 199211186A1 (Cognis) discloses highly concentrated flowable pearlizingconcentrates with concentrations of at least 55% by weight which contain25 to 45% by weight selected pearlizing waxes, 25 to 40% by weightnonionic emulsifiers and 0.5 to 15% by weight polyol esters. In theseformulations, however, a high percentage content of emulsifiers isrequired to stabilize the pearlizing waxes. The ratio of pearlizingwaxes to stabilizing emulsifiers is also equivalent and, where theconcentrates are incorporated in formulations, can lead toincompatibilities with other auxiliaries.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide new pearlizing concentrates with a very high content of activesubstances which would be distinguished by a relatively small content ofemulsifiers and by improved processability coupled with high stabilityand comparable performance in regard to the brilliance of thepearlescence.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to highly concentrated, flowablepearlizing concentrates containing

-   (a) 30 to 55% by weight pearlizing waxes,-   (b) less than 25% by weight emulsifiers from the group of nonionic    emulsifiers and optionally from the group of zwitterionic    emulsifiers and-   (c) 0.1 to 5% by weight polyol esters,    with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by weight    with water and optionally other auxiliaries and additives, the sum    of components (a), (b) and (c) is at least 55% by weight and the    quantity ratio of nonionic emulsifiers to polyol esters is in the    range from 5:1 to 10:1.

It has surprisingly been found that the content of emulsifiers can bereduced to below 25% by weight by using mixtures of nonionic emulsifiersand polyol esters in a ratio of 5:1 to 10:1. For the samephysicochemical stability and a uniformly high concentration of activesubstances (corresponding to the sum of pearlizing waxes,emulsifiers/co-emulsifiers and polyol esters), viscosity can be furtherreduced and, hence, processability significantly improved, even forrelatively small quantities.

This effect is particularly pronounced where the preferred nonionicemulsifiers, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, are used; without the additionof the polyol esters, they would contribute to a high viscosity. Inaddition, an increase in physicochemical stability is obtained when thenonionic emulsifiers are used in combination with zwitterionicemulsifiers.

The new pearlizing concentrates are also very finely particulate andprovide water-based surfactant preparations with a particularly denseand brilliant pearlescence.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters,fatty acid alkanolamides, partial glycerides, esters of polybasic,optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids, fatty alcohols, fattyacids, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers, fatty carbonates,ring opening products of olefin epoxides and mixtures thereof.

The alkylene glycol esters which form component (a1) are normallymonoesters and/or diesters of alkylene glycols corresponding to formula(I):R¹CO(OA)_(n)OR²  (I)in which R¹CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acylgroup containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R² is hydrogen or has the samemeaning as R¹CO and A is a linear or branched alkylene group containing2 to 4 carbon atoms and n is a number of 1 to 5. Typical examples aremonoesters and/or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol ortetraethylene glycol with fatty acids containing 6 to 22 and preferably12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenicacid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof.

Other pearlizing waxes, such as fatty acid alkanolamides, correspond toformula (II):R³CO—NR⁴—B—OH  (II)in which R³CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acylgroup containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R⁴ is hydrogen or an optionallyhydroxy-substituted alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and B isa linear or branched alkylene group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms.Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanol-amine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methyl propanolamine anddipropanolamine and mixtures thereof with caproic acid, caprylic acid,2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid,myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearicacid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid,linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenicacid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Stearic acidethanolamide is particularly preferred.

Partial glycerides are monoesters and/or diesters of glycerol withlinear, saturated fatty acids, i.e. for example caproic acid, caprylicacid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and technical mixturesthereof. They correspond to formula (III):

in which R⁵CO is a linear, saturated acyl group containing 6 to 22carbon atoms, R⁶ and R⁷ independently of one another represent hydrogenor have the same meaning as R⁵CO, x, y and z together stand for 0 or fora number of 1 to 30 and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, with theproviso that at least one of the two substituents R⁶ and R⁷ is hydrogen.Typical examples are lauric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid diglyceride,coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid triglyceride,palmitic acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid triglyceride, stearic acidmonoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acidmonoglyceride, tallow fatty acid di-glyceride, behenic acidmonoglyceride, behenic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereofwhich may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from theproduction process.

Another preferred group of pearlizing waxes are esters of polybasic,optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcoholscontaining 6 to 22 carbon atoms. The acid component of these esters maybe selected, for example, from malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid,adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalicacid, isophthalic acid and, more particularly, succinic acid and alsomalic acid, citric acid and, more particularly, tartaric acid andmixtures thereof. The fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to18 and more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain. Typicalexamples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol,oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol,linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol andtechnical mixtures thereof. The esters may be present as full or partialesters; monoesters and, above all, diesters of carboxylic orhydroxycarboxylic acids preferably being used. Typical examples aresuccinic acid mono- and dilauryl ester, succinic acid mono- anddicetearyl ester, succinic acid mono- and distearyl ester, tartaric acidmono- and dilauryl ester, tartaric acid mono- and dicocoalkyl ester,tartaric acid mono- and dicetearyl ester, citric acid mono-, di- andtrilauryl ester, citric acid mono-, di- and tricocoalkyl ester andcitric acid mono-, di- and tricetearyl ester.

A third group of pearlizing waxes are fatty alcohols and fatty acidscorresponding to formulae (IVa and b):R⁸OH  (IVa)R⁸COOH  (IVb)in which R⁸ is a linear, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl groupand/or acyl group containing 16 to 48 and preferably 18 to 36 carbonatoms. Typical examples of suitable alcohols are cetearyl alcohol,hydroxystearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and oxidation products oflong-chain paraffins.

Fatty ketones preferably correspond to formula (V):R⁹—CO—R¹⁰  (V)in which R⁹ and R¹⁰ independently of one another represent alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. The ketones may be prepared by known methods, for example bypyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketonesmay be symmetrical or non-symmetrical, although the two substituents R⁹and R¹⁰ preferably differ from one another by only one carbon atom andare derived from fatty acids containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

Fatty aldehydes suitable as pearlizing waxes preferably correspond toformula (VI):R¹¹COH  (VI)in which R¹¹CO is a linear or branched acyl group containing 24 to 48and preferably 28 to 32 carbon atoms.

Other suitable pearlizing waxes are fatty ethers corresponding toformula (VII):R¹²—O—R¹³  (VII)in which R¹² and R¹³ independently of one another represent alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. Fatty ethers of the type mentioned are normally prepared byacidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fatty etherswith particularly advantageous pearlizing properties are obtained bycondensation of fatty alcohols containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms such as,for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/or erucylalcohol.

Other suitable pearlizing waxes are fatty carbonates corresponding toformula (VIII):R¹⁴O—CO—OR¹⁵  (VIII)in which R¹⁴ and R¹⁵ independently of one another are alkyl and/oralkenyl groups containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatthey contain a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbonatoms. The substances are obtained by transesterifying dimethyl ordiethyl carbonate, for example, with the corresponding fatty alcohols bymethods known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates may besymmetrical or non-symmetrical. However, carbonates in which R¹⁴ and R¹⁵are the same and represent alkyl groups containing 16 to 22 carbon atomsare preferably used. Transesterification products of dimethyl or diethylcarbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/or erucyl alcoholin the form of their monoesters and diesters and technical mixturesthereof are particularly preferred.

The ring-opening products are known substances which are normallyobtained by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefinepoxides with aliphatic alcohols. The reaction products preferablycorrespond to formula (IX):

in which R¹⁶ and R¹⁷ represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 10to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum total of carbon atomsof R¹⁶ and R¹⁷ is between 10 and 20 and R¹⁸ is an alkyl and/or alkenylgroup containing 12 to 22 and/or the residue of a polyol containing 2 to15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Typical examples arering-opening products of α-dodecene epoxide, α-hexadecene epoxide,α-octadecene epoxide, α-eicosene epoxide, α-docosene epoxide, i-dodeceneepoxide, i-hexadecene epoxide, i-octadecene epoxide, i-eicosene epoxideand/or i-docosene epoxide with lauryl alcohol, cocofatty alcohol,myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinylalcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and/orerucyl alcohol. Ring opening products of hexa- and/or octadeceneepoxides with fatty alcohols containing 16 to 18 carbon atoms arepreferably used. If polyols are used instead of the fatty alcohols forthe ring opening reaction, they are selected for example from thefollowing substances: glycerol; alkylene glycols such as, for example,ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecularweight of 100 to 1,000 dalton; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with adegree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technicaldiglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol anddipentaerythritol; lower alkyl glucosides, more particularly thosecontaining 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as, for example,methyl and butyl glucoside; sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbonatoms such as, for example, sorbitol or mannitol, sugars containing 5 to12 carbon atoms such as, for example, glucose or sucrose; amino sugarssuch as, for example, glucamine.

Preferred pearlizing waxes are alkylene glycol fatty acid esterscorresponding to formula (I) in quantities of 30 to 50% by weight,preferably in quantities of 36 to 45% by weight and more particularly inquantities of 37 to 41% by weight, based on the bearlizing concentrates.Among these pearlizing waxes, ethylene glycol mono- and/or distearateis/are particularly preferred for sparkling pearlescence. The bestresults are obtained with ethylene glycol distearate.

Nonionic Emulsifiers

Suitable nonionic emulsifiers (component b) are, for example, nonionicsurfactants from at least one of the following groups:

-   (b1) products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0    to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto    C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon    atoms in the alkyl group and onto alkyl amines containing 8 to 22    carbon atoms in the alkyl group;-   (b2) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms    in the alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;-   (b3) products of the additon of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto    castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;-   (b4) products of the addition of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto    castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;-   (b5) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or    tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;-   (b6) wool wax alcohols;-   (b7) polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding    derivatives;-   (b8) polyalkylene glycols and-   (b9) glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor oil are knowncommercially available products. They are homolog mixtures of which theaverage degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between thequantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate withwhich the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acidmonoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide ontoglycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers from DE 2024051 PS. C_(8/18)alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their production and their use areknown from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reactingglucose or oligosaccharides with primary C₈₋₁₈ alcohols. So far as theglycoside unit is concerned, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugarunit is attached to the fatty alcohol by a glycoside bond and oligomericglycosides with a degree of oligomerization of preferably up to about 8are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean valueon which the homolog distribution typical of such technical products isbased.

Fatty alcohol ethoxylates and especially fatty alcohol ethoxylates ofC_(12/14) fatty alcohols containing 2 to 6 ethylene oxide units areparticularly preferred for the purposes of the present invention.

Zwitterionic Emulsifiers

In addition, zwitterionic surfactants may be used as emulsifiers.Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which contain atleast one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and onesulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionicsurfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacyl aminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.

Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholyticsurfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to aC_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group andat least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coco-alkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.

Particularly preferred zwitterionic or ampholytic surfactants arebetaines and, of these, especially the fatty acid amide derivative knownunder the CTFA name of Cocoamidopropyl Betaine.

The total emulsifier content should be below 25% by weight, preferablybelow 20% by weight and more particularly between 10 and 18% by weight,based on the quantity of the pearlizing concentrates. The quantity ratioof pearlizing waxes to total emulsifier is then between 7:1 and 2:1,preferably between 3.5:1 and 2.3:1 and more preferably between 2.7:1 and2.4:1.

With regard to the physicochemical stability of the concentrates, it hasproved to be particularly suitable to use the nonionic emulsifiers inthe form of mixtures with zwitterionic emulsifiers. The quantity ratioof nonionic to zwitterionic emulsifiers should then be between 0.5:1 and5:1 and is preferably between 1:1 and 2:1 and, more particularly,substantially equivalent at 1:1 to 1.2:1.

The pearlizing concentrates should preferably be free from anionicsurfactants.

Polyol Esters

Polyol esters which—as co-emulsifiers—form component (c) may be selectedfrom the following groups of compounds:

-   (c1) partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,    linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon    atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms    and adducts thereof with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;-   (c2) partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of    self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400    to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for    example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example methyl glucoside,    butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example    cellulose) with saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched    fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or    hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms and adducts    thereof with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;-   (c3) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and    fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and/or mixed esters of    fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and    polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide with the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohyd roxystea rate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxy-stearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof.

Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triestersof trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofattyacid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid,behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethyleneoxide.

Preferred polyol esters for the purposes of the present invention areethoxylated partial glycerides with 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 molethylene oxide. They are used in quantities of 0.1 to 5% by weight,preferably in quantities of 0.3 to 3% by weight and more particularly inquantities of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the quantity of thepearlizing concentrates.

The quantity ratio of nonionic emulsifiers (nonionic surfactants) topolyol esters advantageous for viscosity adjustment is 5:1 to 10:1,preferably 6:1 to 9:1 and more particularly 7.5:1 to 8:1.

Polyols

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the concentrates mayadditionally contain *polyols as an optional component (e) for reducingviscosity. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms andat least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functionalgroups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen.Typical examples are

-   glycerol;-   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene    glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and    polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000    dalton;-   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation    of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical diglycerol mixtures    with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;-   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,    trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and    dipentaerythritol;-   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon    atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;-   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol    or mannitol;-   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or    sucrose;-   amino sugars, for example glucamine;-   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.

The polyols are used in quantities of typically 0.1 to 10% by weight,preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly 0.7 to 1% byweight, based on the quantity of the pearlizing concentrates. If largerquantities of polyol, preferably glycerol or ethylene glycol, are used,the concentrates are simultaneously stabilized against microbialinfestation.

Production Process

In one preferred embodiment, which is also a subject of the invention,the pearlizing concentrates are produced by preparing a mixture ofcomponents (a), (b) and (c), heating it to a temperature 1 to 30° C.above the melting point of the mixture, mixing it with the necessaryquantity of water having substantially the same temperature and thencooling the mixture to room temperature. In an alternative method ofproduction, a concentrated aqueous surfactant paste may be initiallyintroduced, the pearlizing wax stirred in while heating and the mixturesubsequently diluted with more water to the required concentration orthe mixing step may be carried out in the presence of polymerichydrophilic thickeners such as, for example, hydroxypropyl celluloses,xanthan gum or polymers of the Carbomer type.

Commercial Applications

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention typically havethe following composition:

-   (a) 30 to 55% by weight pearlizing waxes,-   (b) less than 25% by weight emulsifiers from the group of nonionic    emulsifiers and optionally from the group of zwitterionic    emulsifiers and-   (c) 0.1 to 5% by weight polyol esters,    with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by weight    with water and optionally other auxiliaries and additives, the sum    of components (a), (b) and (c) is at least 55% by weight and the    quantity ratio of nonionic emulsifiers to polyol esters is in the    range from 5:1 to 10:1.

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention preferably havethe following composition:

-   (a) 36 to 45% by weight pearlizing waxes,-   (b1) 3 to 12% by weight nonionic emulsifiers and-   (b2) 3 to 12% by weight zwitterionic emulsifiers and-   (c) 0.3 to 3% by weight polyol esters,    with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by weight    with water and optionally other auxiliaries and additives, the sum    of components (a), (b) and (c) is at least 55% by weight, the    quantity ratio of nonionic emulsifiers to polyol esters is in the    range from 5:1 to 10:1 and the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes to    emulsifiers is in the range from 3.5:1 to 2.3:1.

The particularly preferred composition of the pearlizing concentratesaccording to the invention is:

-   (a) 37 to 41% by weight pearlizing waxes,-   (b1) 4 to 10% by weight nonionic emulsifiers and-   (b2) 4 to 10% by weight zwitterionic emulsifiers and-   (c) 0.5 to 1.5% by weight polyol esters and-   (d) 0 to 5% by weight polyols,    with the provisos that the quantities shown add up to 100% by weight    with water and optionally other auxiliaries and additives, the sum    of components (a), (b) and (c) is at least 55% by weight, the    quantity ratio of nonionic emulsifiers to polyol esters is in the    range from 6:1 to 9:1 and the quantity ratio of pearlizing waxes to    emulsifiers is in the range from 2.7:1 to 2.4:1.

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention are suitable foropacifying surface-active preparations such as, for example, hairshampoos or manual dishwashing detergents. To produce opacified andpearlescent, liquid water-based preparations of water-solublesurfactants, the pearlizing concentrates are added to the clearwater-based preparations in a quantity of 0.5 to 40% by weight,preferably 1 to 20% by weight and more particularly 2 to 10% by weight,normally at 0 to 40° C., and are distributed therein by stirring.

Cosmetic and/or Pharmaceutical Preparations

The pearlizing concentrates according to the invention may be used forthe production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations, forexample hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams,gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions,wax/fat compounds, stick preparations, powders or ointments. Thesepreparations may also contain mild surfactants, oil components,superfatting agents, consistency factors, thickeners, polymers, siliconecompounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorizers,antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UVprotection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insectrepellents, self-tanning agents, solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes andthe like as further auxiliaries and additives.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. particularly dermatologicallycompatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates,monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acidisethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acidglutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyloligo-glucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and/orprotein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheat proteins.

Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based onfatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms,esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols,esters of branched C₆₋₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C₆₋₂₂ fattyalcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate,myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristylbehenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetylstearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetylerucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearylisostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate,isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate,isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate,isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate,oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenylmyristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate,behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate,erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, emucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate,erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linearC₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/orbranched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propyleneglycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols,triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/tri-glyceridemixtures based on C₆₋₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcoholsand/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, moreparticularly benzoic acid, esters of C₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylic acids withlinear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyolscontaining 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetableoils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear andbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters ofbenzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for exampleFinsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkylethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring openingproducts of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oilsand/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane,squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylatedlanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters,monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acidalkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfattyalcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms andalso partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. Acombination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fattyacid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerolpoly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilicsilicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar,agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose andhydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weightpolyethylene glycol mono-esters and diesters of fatty acids,polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens®[Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone,surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides,esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol ortrimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyloligoglucosides and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammoniumchloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloseobtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides,quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, forexample, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols andamines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example,Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau),quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic siliconepolymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acidand dimethylamino-hydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®,Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammoniumchloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides as described,for example, in FR 2252840 A and crosslinked water-soluble polymersthereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternizedchitosan, optionally in micro-crystalline distribution, condensationproducts of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, withbis-dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationicguar gum such as, for example, Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C-17, Jaguar®C-16 ofCelanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example,Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butylmaleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked andpolyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammoniumchloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methylmethacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinylacetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatizedcellulose ethers and silicones.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Toddet al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides while suitable waxes are interalia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax,Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti,lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax),petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hardwaxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes,hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example,polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminiumand/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example,tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol,panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essentialoils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odorsare formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspirationwhich results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradationproducts. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act asgerm inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act againstgram-positive bacteria such as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid andsalts and esters thereof,N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea,2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,3-(4-chloro-phenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC),antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, nettle oil, menthol,mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate (GML),diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such as, forexample, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic acid-n-decyl amide.

Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors.Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethylcitrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and,in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf,FRG). Esterase inhibitors inhibit enzyme activity and thus reduce odorformation. Other esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphatessuch as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasteroland sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and estersthereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester,glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester,adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester,hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, for example citric acid,malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zincglycinate.

Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of absorbingand largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They reduce thepartial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce therate at which they spread. An important requirement in this regard isthat perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not activeagainst bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt ofricinoleic acid or special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to theexpert as “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of labdanum orstyrax or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal component.Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which, besides theirodor-masking function, impart their particular perfume note to thedeodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of naturaland synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances include the extracts ofblossoms, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs andgrasses, needles and branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials,for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical syntheticperfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the estertype are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalylacetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include,for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,hydroxy-citronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketonesare the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol,citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethylalcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes andbalsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfumecompounds which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Othersuitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatilitywhich are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil,camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil,lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanumoil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably usedeither individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm wetnessand body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands.Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations typically contain thefollowing ingredients:

-   (a) astringent active principles,-   (b) oil components,-   (c) nonionic emulsifiers,-   (d) co-emulsifiers,-   (e) consistency factors,-   (f) auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or    complexing agents and/or-   (g) nonaqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene    glycol and/or glycerol.

Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are, above all,salts of aluminium, zirconium or zinc. Suitable antihydrotic agents ofthis type are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate,aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and complexcompounds thereof, for example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminiumhydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconiumtrichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminiumzirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for examplewith amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-solubleauxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be presentin relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries such as theseinclude, for example,

-   inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling    essential oils,-   synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or-   oil-soluble perfume oils.

Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives,water-soluble perfumes, pH regulators, for example buffer mixtures,water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or syntheticpolymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose,polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Suitable antidandruff agents are climbazol, octopirox and zincpyrithione.

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof and similar compounds.

Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are montmorillonites, clayminerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich). Othersuitable polymers and swelling agents can be found in R. Lochhead'sreview in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Examples of UV protection factors include organic substances (lightfilters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and whichare capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing theenergy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following areexamples of oil-soluble substances:

-   3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and derivatives    thereof, for example 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, as described    in EP 0693471 B1;-   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably    4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,    4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and    4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;-   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,    4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic    acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);-   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl    ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid    homomenthyl ester;-   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably    2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,    2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,    2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;-   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid    di-2-ethylhexyl ester;-   triazine derivatives such as, for example,    2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine and    Octyl Triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1, or Dioctyl Butamido    Triazine (Uvasorb® HEB);-   propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,    1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;-   ketotricyclo(5.2.1)decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521    B1.

Suitable water-soluble substances are

-   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline    earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and    glucammonium salts thereof;-   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably    2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof;-   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for    example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and    2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methanesuch as, for example1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione,4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789),1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and the eneaminecompounds described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filtersmay of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Besides the solublesubstances mentioned, insoluble pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metaloxides or salts, may also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitablemetal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide andalso oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminium and ceriumand mixtures thereof. Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zincstearate may be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the formof the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions. Theparticles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm,preferably from 5 to 50 nm and more preferably from 15 to 30 nm. Theymay be spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or othernon-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also besurface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typicalexamples are coated titanium dioxides such as, for example, TitandioxidT 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coatingmaterials are, above all, silicones and particularly trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferablyused in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide is preferablyused. Other suitable UV filters can be found in P. Finkel's review inSÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

Besides the two above-mentioned groups of primary protection factors,secondary protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used.Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt thephotochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrateinto the skin. Typical examples of suitable antioxidants are amino acids(for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivativesthereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (forexample α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivativesthereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose,propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine,glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl,methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts,dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionicacid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids,nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (forexample butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninesulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very smallcompatible dosages (for example pmol to μmol/kg), also (metal) chelators(for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid,lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid,malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acidsand derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid,oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone andubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof(for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate),vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoateof benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxy-butyrophenone, uric acid andderivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof,Superoxid-Dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example seleniummethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substancessuitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol orpolyols, may be used to improve flow behavior.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes ofcompounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverordnung(“Cosmetics Directive”). Suitable insect repellents areN,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or EthylButylacetyl-aminopropionate. A suitable self-tanning agent isdihydroxyacetone.

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.Natural fragrances include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender,rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium,patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper),fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery,cardamon, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiacwood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass,sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine),resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum,opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may alsobe used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester,ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples ofperfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethylisobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones,α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols areanethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include theterpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures ofdifferent perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeablefragrance. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relativelylow volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples aresage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leafoil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferablyused either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil,dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol,α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde,linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexylsalicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeingamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide,romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved forcosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication“Kosmetische Färbemittel” of the Farbstoffkommission der DeutschenForschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106.These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% byweight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total percentage content of auxiliaries and additives may be from 1to 50% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, based on theparticular composition. The compositions may be produced by standard hotor cold processes and are preferably produced by the phase inversiontemperature method.

EXAMPLES

The viscosity of pearlizing concentrates 1 to 4 according to theinvention and comparison mixtures C1 to C3, C5 and C6 was determined bythe Brookfield method in an RVT viscosimeter (23° C., 10 r.p.m., spindle5). In the case of the highly concentrated formulations of lowemulsifier content (C1 to C3), it is clear that only the addition ofpolyol esters leads to a low . . . flowable preparation. Where lowconcentration formulations with a relatively high emulsifier content (C5and C6) are used, the addition of polyol esters does not lead to asignificant change in viscosity.

TABLE 1 Composition and performance of pearlizing concentrates[quantities in % by weight active substance] Composition C1 C2 C3 1 2 34 C5 C6 Ethyleneglycol Distearate Cutina ® AGS 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.040.0 40.0 27.0 27.0 C12/14 Fatty alcohol + 4 EO Dehydol ® LS4 9.0 — —8.0 — — 10.0 10.0 9.0 C12/14 Fatty alcohol + 6 EO Dehydol ® LS6 — 7.0 —— 6.0 — — — — PEG-7-Glycerol Cocoate Cetiol ® HE — — 1.0 1.0 1.4 — — 1.0PEG-5-Cocoate — — — — — 1.0 — — Coco Glucosides Plantacare ® 818 — — 9.0— — 8.0 — — — Cocamidopropyl Betaine Dehyton ® K 8.0 10.0 4.0 8.0 4.07.0 7.0 7.0 Benzoic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water to100 Viscosity of the concentrates [mPas] >100,000 >100,000 >100000 96009800 8500 9900 6100 5900 Ratio of nonionic surfactant to polyol ester —— — 8:1 6:1 5.7:1 10:1 — 9:1 Ratio of pearlizing wax to emulsifiers2.4:1 2.4:1 3.1:1 2.5:1   6.7:1   3; 3:1  2.4:1  1.6:1 1.7:1  

1. A pearlizing composition comprising: (a) from about 30 to 55% byweight of a pearlizing wax; (b) a nonionic emulsifier; (c) optionally, azwitterionic emulsifier; (d) from about 0.1 to 5% by weight of a polyolester; and (e) water, all weights being based on the weight of thecomposition, and wherein the sum of (a)+(b)+(c) is at least about 55% byweight, based on the weight of the composition, and wherein the sum of(b)+(c) is less than 25% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition, and wherein (b) and (d) are present in the composition in aratio by weight of from about 5:1 to 10:1.
 2. The composition of claim 1wherein (b) is a fatty alcohol ethoxylate.
 3. The composition of claim 1wherein (a) is present in the composition in an amount of from about 37to 41% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1 wherein the sum of (b)+(c) is from about 10 to18% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 5. Thecomposition of claim 1 wherein the composition is free of anionicsurfactants.
 6. The composition of claim 1 wherein (d) is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based onthe weight of the composition.
 7. The composition of claim 1 wherein (d)is an ethoxylated partial glyceride.
 8. The composition of claim 1wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about 36 to 45% by weight,(b) is present in an amount of from about 3 to 12% by weight, (c) ispresent in an amount of from about 3 to 12% by weight, (d) is present inan amount of from about 0.3 to 3% by weight, all weights being based onthe weight of the composition.
 9. A process for imparting pearlescenceto a product comprising adding to a water based preparation comprisingwater soluble surfactants a pearlescent composition containing: (a) fromabout 30 to 55% by weight of a pearlizing wax; (b) a nonionicemulsifier; (c) optionally, a zwitterionic emulsifier; (d) from about0.1 to 5% by weight of a polyol ester; and (e) water, all weights beingbased on the weight of the composition, and wherein the sum of(a)+(b)+(c) is at least about 55% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition, and wherein the sum of (b)+(c) is less than 25% by weight,based on the weight of the composition, and wherein (b) and (d) arepresent in the composition in a ratio by weight of from about 5:1 to10:1.
 10. The process of claim 9 wherein (b) is a fatty alcoholethoxylate.
 11. The process of claim 9 wherein (a) is present in thecomposition in an amount of from about 37 to 41% by weight, based on theweight of the composition.
 12. The process of claim 9 wherein the sum of(b)+(c) is from about 10 to 18% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 13. The process of claim 9 wherein the composition is freeof anionic surfactants.
 14. The process of claim 9 wherein (d) ispresent in the composition in an amount of from about 0.5 to 1.5% byweight, based on the weight of the composition.
 15. The process of claim9 wherein (d) is an ethoxylated partial glyceride.
 16. The process ofclaim 9 wherein the composition contains (a) in an amount of from about36 to 45% by weight, (b) in an amount of from about 3 to 12% by weight,(c) in an amount of from about 3 to 12% by weight, and (d) in an amountof from about 0.3 to 3% by weight, all weights being based on the weightof the composition.
 17. The process of claim 9, wherein, from 0.5% to40% by weight of the pearlescent composition is added to the water basedpreparation, wherein, the percent by weight is based on the weight ofthe water based preparation.
 18. The process of claim 9, wherein, from1% to 20% by weight of the pearlescent composition is added to the waterbased preparation, wherein, the percent by weight is based on the weightof the water based preparation.
 19. The process of claim 9, wherein,from 2% to 10% by weight of the pearlescent composition is added to thewater based preparation, wherein, the percent by weight is based on theweight of the water based preparation.